Ghana is quite an amazing place which has left an indelible mark on me.

Up until 1998 I never ever really heard of the place. But I was lucky enough to meet the master drummer Frederick Kwasi Dunyo in St. John’s, Newfoundland at the Sound Symposium (www.soundsymposium.com) in the summer 1998 and he was my door into the universe of African music. I first went to Ghana to stay in his village called Dagbamete, Volta Region in 1999 (July and August). Basically 2 months of drum lessons, spiritual lessons, dance lessons, culinary lessons, language lessons…life lessons. It was a time I will always cherish…so many new experiences which had a profound impact on me….and many people that have become close friends. Some still living, some have passed.

I returned again in 2002 (Jan-June) and stayed in the same area and spent more time in Kwasi’s mother’s village called Dzogadze. My time there was an education that money can never buy nor any school ever claim to offer. Then, after a 5 year break I went back in 2007 (Jan-May) to re-visit old friends, venture into new territory and go deeper in many respects.

I've been back in 2009, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2019 (doing a lot of PhD research from 2015 onwards).

I won’t say much more here as my letters below and the pictures on this site speak volumes. But please be aware that I spend most of time in rural areas and that is what you will see most on this site. One must know that Ghana is quite a developing country…that is, it has all the amenities, cities, technologies, vices and problems that we have in our “developed” world….maybe just on a different scale.

​

Some kids from Dzogadze eager to carry the drums to the playing ground where a performance is about to take place. Dzogadze, Volta Region, 2007

Me in my compound in Dzogadze trying to make akple, one of the favorite foods of the Ewe. It can take many forms but is essentially a flour (corn, cassava) mixed with some water on a fire/stove and pushed and stirred until the correct consistency arises. You tear of piece with your right hand, dip in some detsi (soup) and swallow it whole. Dzogadze, Volta Region, 2007

A group picture of many of the happy and adorable school children from Dzogadze, from the pre-schoolers in the front to the junior high students in the back. Behind them are some of the elementary school rooms. In the foreground are some typical school desks. Many of the smaller children are now using the "Curtis Kordzo Andrews Block". Dzogadze, Volta Region 2007

Two freshly painted large atsimevu drums at the workshop of Bob Tengey. The atsimevu is the largest and one of the most important drums that the Ewe have. Used in most forms of music, played with two sticks, or stick/hand combination. These are taller than me and are usually played slanted on a stand. They are super loud and can be heard miles away. They are also used to signal to townspeople and neighbouring villages about upcoming funerals or musical meetings. The azagunor (master drummer) will play rhythms of a particular drum/dance style which people will recognize as Atsiagbekor, Adzida, Kinka etc and know that the next day that music will be played in the village they are hearing the rhythm emanating from. Akatsi, Volta Region, 2007

Oh yes, the ever popular “Ludo” (or Ludu as it is known in Ghana). Not sure where this game originated, but is very popular in Ghana. Kind of like the game Sorry! but better. I have played many people and have had some heated matches. People in Dzogadze seem to have their own complicated rules which players in other towns do not. The pictures on the board can range from football stars to Princess Diana, politicians and musicians. I have a homemade one in Canada which has pics of my friends and some food from Ghana. Dzogadze, Volta Region, 2007

Training sessions for the dance called Adzogbo, one of the most intense pieces the Ewe have. My teacher is Agbo Setsoafia, a super drummer and dancer. I spent just over two weeks going to his family’s compound each day, twice a day for lessons on drumming, singing and some dancing too. It was a lot to take in. The song often follows the dance which follows the drum. The lessons took place in the family’s shrine yard, often under the watchful eye of his Grandfather, Yibor Setsoafia aka “Oluwa”. Aflao, Volta Region, 2007

An amazing tree under which many drumming sessions have taken place. It spreads over the whole group, giving protection from the sun. It is one of the first things you see when entering the village. Dagbamete, Volta Region, 2007

My good friend Sunday “Baba” Nyakpo leading some singers in the Dzigbordi Akpoka community drumming group. I met Sunday in 1999 and he helped me out a lot and has continued to do so on my return visits. He has taught me many, many songs and will hopefully teach me many more. Dagbamete, Volta Region, 2007

An unspoiled area of coastline of Ghana. Lined with coconut trees and a traditional fishing canoe at times, these beaches are fairly clean, unpopulated and rough. Waves can be large and unruly but you are sometimes lucky to find a calm spot and take a dip. Cool breezes too. Aflao, Volta Region, 2007

This girl (Martha Agudzeamegah) is preparing for a procession and will carry the atsimevu while it is being played until they reach the playing ground. I can only imagine the vibrations she must get. Tadzewu (Near Dzogadze), 2007

I got cold shivers when I saw this. A stark reminder of the past. This is an actual part of a slave chain that was once connected to one of Ledzi’s great-grandfathers. He was lucky enough to escape and not be carried off in to slavery. Dzogadze, 2007

I know this road well as it leads to Dzogadze from the “main dirt road” leading to Tadzewu from Abor. Takes about 20-25 mins on foot and I have walked it many times when no cars were on the road….daytime, nighttime, anytime. On all sides are farms. Dzogadze, 2007

Yes indeed!! Kenkey and fried fish with tomato/chili sauce. I would eat this almost everyday…..the whole fish (head, bones). Fried just right. Probably made me a little fat. Eaten at the roadside and costs about $1.50. The kenkey is fermented and steamed corn dough…. an acquired taste, but now looking at this I am salivating. Aflao, 2007

Yibor Setsoafia aka “Oluwa” (Old One). Master diviner (Torbokor), master drummer (Azagunorga), and priest of many vodu (Hunorga). He is the Adzogbo master and bokor (priest who knows the ways of divination) of Aflao. You could feel his power when he looked at you. He was actually one of the first people to bring that dance to this part of Ghana from Togo decades ago. A master drummer, he has taught his sons and grand-sons to carry on the tradition and he would keep watch over me as I was learning as well. After lessons, we would engage in a game of ludu but I never got a chance to beat him. Next time perhaps. Not sure of his age, in his 80’s and hunched over when he walks. But he can still ride a motorcycle!!! Aflao, 2007

Sylvester Glago Agudzemegah…..one of the elder drummers of Dzogadze and Ledzi’s father. He is actually most responsible for resurrecting and allowing the war dance Atsiagbekor to thrive in this village. Originally, the dance was only for men, warriors at that, and they would undergo secret training to learn the dances, drumming and songs. As the function of the dance changed overtime, less and less men were learning it. As Glago was a school teacher he saw that only by teaching the youth would this tradition continue. Initially he was met with resistance from some elders but others saw the need for the change. So in the late 1970’s he started to teaching school aged children this dance and it has flourished ever since and he even created a women’s section. Learning this dance was the main reason I came to Dzogadze. In fact, I was the first outsider to stay for such a period of time and learn so much of this dance. The style that they perform in Dzogadze is actually quite unique and not found anywhere else in Ghana. Glago in this picture is at a funeral playing the atumpan which are actually talking drums. He can mimic speech and phrases and call people’s names, complement them, speak proverbs. This is possible because the Ewe language is tonal and can be replicated to a degree on drums. Dzogadze, 2007

A master drummer to be. This boy would come by our compound after my lessons were done and try his hand at the atsimevu. No one taught him, he just played what he heard growing up and was actually pretty good. Dzogadze, 2007

A still used for making apketeshie which is a very popular and potent form of moonshine made from distilled palm wine. I have indeed imbibed my fair share of this liquid. On the road to Dzogadze, 2007

Myself and Buna aka Labor Labi, a Brekete preist. Besides being a “fetish priest”, he is also a top notch drummer and a good friend of mine. Batah (near Dzoogadze), 2007

Me and Worlasi in action. This was taken at a very large funeral for a Queen Mother. Thousands of people had amassed and several different groups were performing at the same time. The Atsiagbekor group was invited from Dzogazde and they said I should also join them. I was a little out of practice (and tired) but did okay. We danced for about 45 mins in the blazing afternoon sun. Near Dzogadze (I forget the town), 2007

This is one of my best friends in Ghana, Ledzi Agudzemegah. Son of Glago and treasurer of the Dzogadze Education Development Foundation. A fantastic dancer and drummer, he has taught me an enormous amount about music and life in Ghana. We lived together for about 2 months. He is presently finishing up his training to be a Chartered Accountant. This picture was taken at the same funeral for the deceased Queen Mother. Near Dzogadze, 2007

Me "taking" the atsimevu at the aforementioned funeral. Good times. Near Dzogadze, 2007

A funny picture painted on the wall of a restaurant in Accra, the capital city of Ghana. Accra, 2007

My wise friend Wofa Davor (RIP). An herbalist, farmer, jack-of-all trades. He is one of the most straightforward and uncomplicated men I know and very trustworthy. Handy with an axe too as he single-handedly cut down this tree(!!) Dagbamete, 2007

Ah yes…the zorgborgbor (procession) to the Apetorku shrine in Dagbamete. Traditional religion is strong in Ghana and this village is home to a very popular and powerful shrine to the spirit Apetorku who heals and protects people. Yearly, a major festival of renewal and cleansing occurs and thousands of people flock to this little village of a few hundred people. This shot is taken as the crowd makes its way to the shrine itself. Dagbamete, 2007

The hunuawo (priests) of the shrine about to enter. From left to right: Tsiami C.K. Davor (RIP), Moses Davor, Sotua Yao Dunyo (RIP), Humegbeda Kwasi Dzotefe Dunyo. Dagbamete, 2007

A front shot of the procession. Dagbamete, 2007

Inside the shrine it is all music, dance, song and spirit. Dagbamete, 2007

Some Dagomba drummers from the Northern region of Ghana. Notice the one fellow has money stuck to his forehead. Someone stuck it there or “dashed” it to him in appreciation of his skills. Tamale, 2007

Some Dagomba drummers from the Northern region of Ghana. Notice the one fellow has money stuck to his forehead. Someone stuck it there or “dashed” it to him in appreciation of his skills. Tamale, 2007

This was part of a funeral and at this moment a dance called Takai is being performed/played. Composed of many sections, the main action is a certain type of spin and striking of iron rods. The attire is quite unique as well, large and heavy smocks which flow up when the dancers twirl. Tamale, 2007

A rooftop shot of some typical houses in the Upper East region of Ghana. Bolgatanga, 2007

A homemade talking drum. Bolgatanga, 2007

A giant baobab tree (background). One of the most common types of trees and is found in many countries. The fruit can be eaten but the wood is somewhat useless (to humans). Bolgatanga, 2007

A young and talented Bamaya dancer in Tamale. He was very popular and was “dashed” quite a bit that day……performing at a nurse's conference. Tamale, 2007

Can you guess what meat this is?? Only eaten by a few, despised by most. Tamale, 2007

My favorite green thing…bamboo. Hundreds of uses and flexible as well. Taken on the road to Kakum rainforest. Kakum (Cape Coast), 2007

Me, Agbo and Oluwa. My two teachers of Adzogbo. Oluwa is in his traditional style of dress. Aflao, 2007

Not a great shot but good content. Typical manner in which “tro-tros”(mini-vans…main form of transportation in Ghana) are packed on market days in Ghana. Inside will be 15-18 people. Akatsi, 2007

This is how the KG and some primary kids would have to learn prior to the construction of the 3-rooms I helped build. While being outside is cooler and brighter, an actual classroom is much more beneficial. Dzogadze, 2007

This pic says a lot. Aflao, 2007

Me pulling my weight on the beach. I was just strolling with my friend Ledzi when we happened upon a group of fisherman and their helpers pulling in a net. They go out in the large canoes, get out of the boat and spread the net in the water. Then later it is slowly pulled in by two long lines of people who gradually get closer to each other. The exact same method is used in India (and elsewhere I assume). In this case, they beckoned me to come close and then wanted me to help. Stupidly, I took off my sandals….shortly thereafter my feet were on fire from the heated sand. Everyone, pulls to and fro to the rhythm of two musicians playing some bells and singing songs. It can take over an hour to pull it in. Afterwards they share the catch, sometimes big, sometimes small. There is a video of it in the "Ghana Galleries page. Aflao, Volta Region, 2007

Drumming action with a Brekete group from Dzogadze. We started in the late evening, played all night, took a break in the day and did the same thing again that evening (I went home though). Intense music, insanely fast and relentless. Used for possession among other things. This shot was taken in the night. My good friend Oliver Torgboh playing the large boba in the back…and enjoying it. Batah, 2007

Funeral notice for the late Busumfo Avi Horsu, a highly respected priest from Dzogadze. Highly aged as well. These types of notices are common in Ghana and listed on the page are all the regional chiefs and traditional leaders of the area, all family members and the mourners. Though he was 107 when he died, his youngest son is in his teens (!!!!) Dzogadze, 2007

Even with a water reservoir and pumping system in place, carrying water is still a daily chore/necessity for most every household in Dzogadze (and many parts of rural Africa). Dzogadze, 2007

I had to include this. A monument to the slaving history of Ghana which was not uncommon. In this case, a concrete circle was created to keep the captives in until they were ready to be shipped or moved. Along the walls, local artists have sculpted the story of slavery as it happened in these parts. Arrival of the white man, deals with ruling chiefs to buy and trade for people, bondage, death. A horrible fact of history. Near Anyanui, 2007

3 of my best friends and drinking buddies. Yao Wofa Davor (herbalist), Sunday “Baba” Nyakpo (singer), me, Avu Kobla Adukpo (master drummer). Dagbamete, 2007

A common sight all over Ghana and many parts of Africa, carrying water. Even with a water reservoir system in the village, many households still have to carry water. Part of child's household chores. Dzogadze, 2007