After visiting Ghana for several years, all roads painted to Benin in terms of the perceived roots of many traditions found among the Ewe in Ghana. I know now that the picture is more complex, and one of overlapping histories and migrations, but still, Benin has some amazing musical and spiritual traditions that are worth exploring.

Here is a little travelogue I shared after first visiting Benin in 2009....What To Say About Benin?
A little bit from 2010...Roadside Pedicures
And another from from 2013....Superglue

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The instruments used in the fascinating music style known as zinli (which I studied most while there), and is quite popular in Agbomey. The two drums, kpesiga (the taller) and kpesivi (the smaller), the 3 different sized gon, the asa rattles and of course, the bass pot drum known as zin. The rhythmic play of this music is quite unlike anything I have ever heard. Check the video in the Benin thumbnail page for an example by this very group, led by my teacher Joel Zodji. Agbomey, Benin, March 2010

This is a master drummer I happened to meet on my last day in Benin. He comes from a traditional family of musicians and artists and was gracious enough to show me some of his traditonal instruments and even played for a bit.... a tease of what is to come when I return. This particular drum is a clay version of the typical large calabsh drums used for a style called "tchingoume" which is popular in Togo and Benin. It is played by slapping the opening with a flimsy piece of leather (or a cut up piece of flip-flop!!) and the result is an awesome bass sound. Painted on the drum is the symbol of the infamous King Glele, one of Dahomey's most respected rulers of the past. Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

This is a 30ft statue Gbehanzin, one of the most well known and recent king of the Fon kingdom. He was one of the first that resisted any trading and ceding of traditional lands of the Fon to colonialist (esp French). He waged a resistance for almost 20 years and was finally defeated by being lured to sea to sign a treaty, only to be taken captive. he died in exile. The caption on the bottom reads: " I will never accept any treaty that threatens the independence of the land of my ancestors." Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

Adjangbodjou....one of the many "Egu" spirits that are found throughout Benin. Of Yoruban origin and siad to represent passed on spirits, the Fon of Benin have also adopted them. They say that if one touches you, you perish. They behave like people, have peculiar likes/dislikes and behaviours, rhythms, costumes and such. Here "he" is standing in front of an unrelated "vodu house" for the deities of "Sakpata" which protect the home disease among other things. You can see two painted figures who are actual family members who personify the deities in questions...one male, one female. I was lucky enough to experience a couple of evening rituals of this deity (of which there are dozens of shrines all over Agbomey). Intense dance and drum with some intense poly-rhythm and acrobatic dancing. Not too mention some elaborate detail to dress. Several members of the house took part...specialized dance for each deity..some young, some old...not open to the public to join. As I was new there (and in the evening) I didn't get any record of it. Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

These are ubiquitous in Benin..."dzafi". ON every roadside you find enterprising individuals selling "discounted" gasoline, motor oil and the like. Most people use these more than a typical gas station, especially for their scooters/motorbikes (which outnumber the cars). Unfortunately, the quality of this fuel is not high-grade and the pollution, in Cotonou especially, is terrible. A dzafi is actually the unit of measure (the large bulbous jar). Porto Novo, Benin, March 2009

Ah yes....Legba personified. I met this "deity" at one of the ceremonies for the Sakpata cult. They were many in number and Legba had to be present. he is found in many parts of West Africa from NIgeria to Ghana and has many forms and functions, not the least of which is the guardian of the crossroads, entrances to most villages and even guarding the entrances to many houses. I got this picture because he asked for it. He signaled me out and through an interpreter, asked me if I was okay and if everything was alright in my life and then asked if I had anything for him. I asked what he woould like and he said to have his picture taken.....so here it is. And yes, that is a large wooden phallus in front him. Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

Ledzi and Malik. We met Malik while waiting for our car to leave from Togo to Benin. He overheard me say I was from Canada to someone else and then we struck up a conversation as he actually lives in Montreal (but is from Benin). He was a great help to me as he found us a place to stay on that first dark and dusty night and allowed me stay to stay with one of his friends for a few days near the end of my journey in Benin. He was also gracious enough to invite us into his home for many meals and show us around Cotonou. A new friend indeed. Behind them you can see a fellow in a yellow jacket (and several more in the distance). These are the ubiquitous "zemidzas" of Benin and ae the de facto method of moving around a town or city. For a few cents you can get a few kilos...but bargaining is essential. Cotonou, Benin, March 2009

I always love visiting markets and finding the ladies who sell the spiritual items. This particular vendor specialized in regalia and instruments used for the different cults in Benin. She had all manner of hats, bracelets, rings, bells, swords, special fabric and more. Bohicon, Benin, March 2009

Here I am with Adjangbojou himself. I spent the afternoon with the fellow on the left, and several of his brothers, one of whom is a priest who summoned Adjangbojou to appear for us. We spent the afternoon, drinking, eating and discussing spiritual matters. The conversation was in 5 languages: Yoruba, Fon, Ewe, French and English(!!) Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

Looking east on the main thoroughfare at Dantokpa. Cotonou, old, still thrives and moves forward. Thousands of people come through here every hour I am sure, most on the zemidja motorcycle taxis. Cotonou, Benin, 2010

My typical quick breakfast in Benin…akla. Beans mashed up and deep-fried. Served with some hot pepper/tomato sauce and some friend yams as well. Costs about $2..if that. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

This photo pretty much sums up my experience in Agbomey….music, booze and water. The sorabi (moonshine) bottle on the left, the gon (bell) in the foreground and a cup of water. These three things were always present in my days in that room with Joel (my teacher). Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Most nights I slept here in the outdoors on a straw mat covered in a simple cotton cloth and a mosquito net. The houses in Agbomey are a series of connected quarters for different family members. This particular space was mostly unoccupied and was much cooler to sleep outdoors than inside. Sometimes though, rain would start in the middle of the night and we’d have to scramble inside. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Alchemy in action…sort of. Blacksmithing, one of the most powerful and needed activities in West Africa. Blacksmithing is usually hereditary and carries a lot of power as blacksmiths have the skills and knowledge to create weapons….and musical instruments. In this pic, a gon (bell) is being made for me. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

This little fellow’s name is Pipo. He was a pet of the owner of this household/drinking bar which me and Joel would frequent from time to time. Pipo was usually free to run around, jump on children and try and eat food. Funny little dude. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Joel Gboja Zodji (l), Dah Zodji (m) and myself (r) in front of the Zodji family drumming compound. Dah Zodji is a royal drummer in Agbomey and is well known and respected. He is also a hunor or traditional priest and is also responsible among other things, for the proper burial rites of the people in his neighbourhood. A gentle fellow, he was quite welcoming to me and would check on my progress with my lessons with Joel from time to time and once played a bit to demonstrate for me...a rare treat I was told. The caption on the wall roughly means "the gentle rain can still bring destruction". Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Interesting meeting this was. On my last day in Benin, I was at the large market of Dantopka buying some instruments. As most religious items are located in the same area, this very gentleman was in the same place. I noticed him from afar and immediately felt happy and smiled at him and he at me. As we met, we shook hands and smiled. The beard connection was one thing but there was more at play here. He said he wanted to meet me at his house. He felt that we both share the same spirit, that of the serpent. In fact, on his two wrists he wears a metal bracelet in the form of a snake and claims that it pinched him when he saw me. At his house, I discovered that he was in fact a very powerful priest with many different vodu (spirits) in his various shrines. He wanted to give me many different powers/protections but I had little time and money. But he did manage to do something for me which I do believe I am seeing the effects of. If you notice the rings on his fingers, each one represents a certain type of power that he wields such as bulletproof, poison proof, knife protection and many more. The talismans around his neck do the same. Cotonou, Benin, 2010

A collection of many of the different vodu that my priest friend has in his house. Each one for a different cause or desire and each with certain wishes/likes/dislikes. They are like people in a way and must be appeased with certain things. Vodu is a mystery indeed. Cotonou, Benin, 2010

This just one section of kilometres of 20 feet wall (agbodo) that surround parts of Agbomey. They were constructed to to create protection for the many palaces of the kings of Dahomey. After one king would die, the successor would build his own palace next to that of the deceased. Hence, there are almost a dozen different palace compounds, some quite sprawling and containing dozens of different buildings (depending on the wealth of the king). The walls are constructed of a special type of earth and water and can last for many years. The palace compound in Agbomey is a UNESCO World Heritage site so these were being renovated. Agbomey, Benin, March 2009

More info about the wall/agbodo. If you can't read French it basically says: The construction of agbodo is attributed to King Agadja, he gave the city its name Agbomé. King Glele undertook an extension to integrate a water source. Agbodo has a length of 10km. It housed the central activity of the kingdom with 10 entry doors. Closed in places, it still remains very expressive on some of its sections: poisonous plants and wild animals lived there. (Edited from Google translate...hahaha) Agbomey, Benin, 2013

Myself and the blacksmith/musician/composer/craftsman named Aifa. I met him last time in Agbomey and I bought one of his VCD’s. This time when we met, he got me to wear one of his group’s shirts, dance with them, play their instruments and film the whole thing for his upcoming VCD clip. He specializes in the very popular and unique style of music called tchingoume/gota which is also found in Togo (see the gallery there for pics). It uses calabashes as drums, bells and shakers as well…and a very quick dance style. The item around my shoulder was made by Aifa and most important musicians, chiefs or people of prestige/power own them. The name escapes me though. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Some of Aifa's group in action playing the calabash drums, called aka in the Fon language. In the background one fellow is playing the kpete whistle and the other the asa rattles. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

Spritual alchemy in effect here. Joel, following his father’s footsteps, is also a practicing hunor (priest). Here he has laid out the proper combination of ingredients for one of the funeral rites of a town neighbourhood member. Blood (from a chicken), plam oil, flour, salt, water, sorabi (moonshine/spirit). This together with the right prayers are the essential components to certain rituals. Agbomey, Benin, 2010

A store room full of massive gourds used for various musical purposes in Dan Tokpan. I managed to get one and then had to build a special wooden crate to cary it with me back on the plane to Canada. Cotonou, Benin, 2011

The terminal point of the "Route des Esclaves" near Ouidah. The impact and history of slavery is so complex and far-reaching, a few words here won't do it justice. Ouidah, Benin, 2011

Legba Shrine House Agbomey, Benin, 2013

Living in the same compound as in Agbomey was a visual artist whose name escapes me but afterwards I learned was something of a big deal in international art circles. All around the outside of the compound he recycled old objects into sculptures, including these computer mice. Agbomey, Benin, 2013

Me and Gboja Jeol Zodji in our matching attire. Agbomey, Benin, 2013

The heart of the zanily ensemble, the zin pot drum whose low bass is felt as much as it is heard. Agbomey-Calavi, Benin, 2013

Zodji drummers in action at a funeral. Agbomey-Calavi, Benin 2013

This fellow also joined the group from Agbomey to perform at the same funeral. Everyone called him "Togolais" he acted a combination of dancer, court jester, magician, and overall entertainer, including fire-eating. My favourite thing is the expressions on everyone else's faces as they regard him. Agbomey-Calavi, Benin 2013

All over Agbomey are reminders of the kingdom that flourished there from the 1600s onward until the beginning of the 1900s. Every king has a signifying image/story and these are painted on walls of various compounds. This is for the 1st king, Gangnihessou. Agbomey, Benin, 2014

The vodu known as Korku is said to have originated in Agbomey under King Behazin (this is the narrative in Ghana anyhow). After several years of visiting, I finally managed to find a Korku shrine on the outskirts of Agbomey. Here is the image on the outside of the shrine house. Near Agbomey, Benin, 2014

My last trip to Benin was in 2014 and good buddy Oliver Vodzi Torgboh from Ghana accompanied me. Here is he is the seat we both shared on the bumpy, slippery, and slooooow journey from Agbomey to Agbomey-Calavi (about 5 hrs). On the road to Cotonou, Benin, 2014

One reason the journey is so long is because the highway was under construction (for some years) and after a rain, this is what you are left with for an the main international highway connecting North and South. Benin, 2014

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